The scroll on the table at Osteria senz’Oste reads “Serve yourselves and enjoy your tasting”. Nobody will come take your order at this old 19th-century farmhouse – among the vineyards on the hill of Cartizze, Veneto, near Santo Stefano in Valdobbiadene – but your host’s presence and thoughtfulness is in the many cold cuts, bottles of wine, Alpine cheeses, bread and traditional desserts that he leaves on the tables of his unconventional restaurant. He remains nowhere to be seen even when you are done: he has set very modest prices, and all you have to do is leave the money in the box he has put out.
Enjoy your meal in this rustic venue that can accommodate up to fourteen guests. Outside, the valley and hills are covered in rows of grapevines and provide a wonderful view any day of the year.
Before heading back out, leave a note to your invisible host on the great guestbook. Some, like Don Romeo, the parish priest in San Pietro di Barbozza and Guia, have taken the opportunity to express their gratitude: “Thank you, God, for the beauty of this beautiful view that enchants the soul and gives peace to the heart. Thank you for the people I meet here, who like me beg for some quiet and serenity”.
Come back at any time. Your host, as always, will not be there to greet you.