Biscottificio Innocenti opened in the Trastevere district in the early 20th century. It is a place where you may very well flinch and lose your bearings for a few moments, as soon as you step inside.
In other words, you may feel like the narrator of Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time”, captivated by a prodigious mix of tea and madeleine crumbs: “An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses, but individual, detached, with no suggestion of its origin. And at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its brevity illusory…”
The ovens here have churned out cookies and crackers of all kinds since before the company’s founder started supplying the army with hardtacks from his workshop: “lingue di gatto”, “brutti ma buoni”, and “fave dei morti” are some of the typical biscuits that the bakery still makes. Its small sweets – made according to Roman tradition with chocolate, jam, almonds or hazelnuts – offer a few minutes of happy disorientation: enjoy them accepting their fleeting wonderfulness, like the children of Goethe’s “The Sorrows of Young Werther”: “they are happiest, who, like children, […] attentively watch the cupboard, where mamma has locked up her sweet things, and, when at last they get a delicious morsel, eat it greedily, and exclaim, ‘More!’”
At the Biscottificio in Trastevere, that innocent and hopeful “More!” is always satisfied.